Andalucía, rich with food, culture, architecture and history was ruled by the Moors for over 8 centuries before the Christians started to reclaim the area in the 13th century, completing the (re)conquest by the 15th century. Because of its long Moorish history there are many impressive monuments still standing that you can visit. Andalucía is the birthplace of flamenco, bullfighting, Picasso, gazpacho, sherry and so much more. No matter the distance you have to cover to arrive in this sun baked region it will undoubtedly be worth the trouble.


Why don’t we start with the northernmost, notable city of Córdoba? Without an airport to fly into Córdoba is most easily reached by high speed rail from Madrid, Barcelona, or Sevilla.

Some people might argue that Córdoba is only worthy of a quick layover between the more bustling cities however I think it is best visited over a 36-48 hour period where you can leisurely stroll through the picturesque city center, visit the sites and maybe even take in a flamenco show or soak in a hammam.

Upon arrival check in to the centrally located, self-service apartments, Los Patios del Pañuelo, in la Judería neighborhood. This 17th century building has been transformed into lux apartments that can accommodate 2-5 people and all look out over the beautiful interior courtyards.

Step out for a stroll to get your bearings. The famed Mezquita sits just one block off of the Guadalquivir river, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos just west of that and the train station and Roman temple further north. The Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba is the reason most people come to Córdoba. Construction on the former mosque started in 786 after the Christian Visigoth church that stood there was torn down. After two centuries of building and expanding it became the second largest mosque in the world. When the Christians reconquered the area they converted the mosque into a church and erected an impressive, beautiful altar in the center of the massive building. Daily masses are still held here.

Is it time to eat yet? Some of my favorite tapas are found only in the south and there is no shortage of places to eat them here. Tuck into one of the tile covered benches at Bodega Guzmán for a lunch of albóndigas, house made atún en escabeche, chorizo cooked in wine and a nice cold glass of fino from the local Montilla y Moriles wine region. If you are in a hurry or just prefer to walk and eat you can stand in line at Bar Santos across from the Mezquita and order a thick slice of creamy tortilla and a beer to go.

In between bites you can check out the lush gardens of the 1300s palace, Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. Take a seat on a bench under the citrus trees or next to the fountains and enjoy the breeze and scent of orange blossoms. An alternative to sightseeing is to luxuriate in the waters of Hammam Al Ándalus where you can rotate between three pools of varying temperatures and relax in the sauna just like the ancient Moors once did ;)

Close out your days by going to dinner at a classic like Bodegas Campo for traditional Córdoban fare like salmorejo, fried eggplant drizzled with cane syrup, and a twist on the local fave rabo de toro, or oxtail, in creamy rice with asparagus and mushrooms. If you are craving something a little different but just as delicious try Regadera where you can order modern takes on classics like mazamorra, a rich, cold soup of almonds, garlic and bread, or try unique dishes like mushroom-stuffed cabbage, tender lamb with miso butter and carrots, or sautéed red prawns with coconut milk and noodles. For dessert go to El Pastel Cordobés and try a slice of the nut-studded, flaky pastry filled with cabello de angel.


Let’s take a trip further south to Sevilla and the land of sherry, or simply Jerez as it is called here in Spain. There is no doubt that Sevilla deserves more of your energy than some other cities in Andalucía but let’s just pretend you only have enough time to dip your toes in at the moment. Take a high speed train from any major city in Spain, including a 40-minute ride from Córdoba, or take a flight into the local airport.

First we will drop the bags off and refresh ourselves at the beautifully converted 17th century mansion, Palacio Bucarelli. Nestled on a quiet, narrow street in the San Lorenzo district you can sleep peacefully in one of the spacious, sunlit suites while only being a 25-minute stroll from the major sites of Sevilla.

On your stroll down to the Real Alcázar make a caffeine pit stop at Virgen Coffee or a little nibble and glass of manzanilla at Bar La Cantina in the Mercado de Feria. If you prefer a sweet snack instead pony up to the bar at historic Confíteria La Campana and order some torrijas.

The Real Alcázar is a stunning 16th century palace with ornate tiles lining the walls and lush gardens full of fountains, hedge mazes, peacocks, ducks and parrots. You could spend hours wandering the palace grounds, inside and out. The garden is a wonderful place to sit and people watch for a bit before moving on to the next thing on your list. Another, lesser known palace worth your time is Casa de Pilatos. Built around the same time as the Alcázar, it has similar design motifs and tile work but on a smaller scale. If you are a tile lover like me it is not to be missed.

One could likely write a novel on dining in this city but here are some of the spots I found to be most delicious and worthy of a repeat visit-
Bar Alfalfa
Bar Casa Morales

El Rinconcillo - the oldest bar in Sevilla! Order the fried chocos and espinacas con garbanzos.
Fatouch - amazing Lebanese food, order the 18EUR “sofra” menu for the chef’s choice.
Ultramarinos - fun for tasting a lot of sherry.
Cervecería La Grande - located in Triana, come here for the boiled little shrimps and a caña!
Blanca Paloma - also in Triana, try the bacalao confitado.

Don’t leave Sevilla without strolling around the Triana neighborhood. Located on the other side of the Guadalquivir river this working-class neighborhood was home to many of cities tile manufacturers and is the birthplace of some world-famous flamenco artists and bullfighters. You can easily walk across the Puente de Isabel II to access this quaint neighborhood, grab a bite to eat and visit the Centro Cerámica tile museum (your Alcázar ticket gets you in for free!) and the 200+ year-old Mercado de Triana.

*Super secret bonus info- go the Santa Iñes convent to purchase homemade, nun-baked cookies through a secret window. The experience itself is fun but the cookies don’t suck either.


A fun side trip from Sevilla is hopping on the bus and heading south to seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda for sherry tasting and tapas nibbling. Go for a tour and tasting at Bodegas Alonso where you might get lucky and have the owner/wine maker show you around.

Another option would be to go Jerez de la Frontera, also for lots of sherry drinking and to take in a flamenco show. I highly recommend reserving a table at the cozy Tabanco el Pasaje , the oldest of its kind in town.

If you need a healthy dose of nature and would prefer to take a little road trip you can easily reach Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema and go for some great hikes, pop in and out of some of the famed white towns including Ronda. You’ll want to spend at least one overnight at Tambor del Llano if you come all the way down here so you can rest up for another day of exploring!