HOW TO SPEND A WEEK IN THE GREEK CAPITAL

I’ve had the pleasure of spending a lot of time in Greece throughout the years. The first time I visited was with my parents in the early 90s and I have felt its siren’s call ever since. Having been over a half dozen times doesn’t qualify me as an expert but I’d like to think I have a little knowledge to offer on this sun soaked city.


WHERE TO EAT AND WHERE TO MEET

Here is where you’ll find my list of favorite bars, cafes, restaurants, bakeries and yogurt shops. It should not be used as your bible but merely a jumping off point for your exploration into a food lover’s paradise.

Stani - This place makes you feel as if you’ve died and gone to dairy heaven. Always order a slab of yogurt with honey and walnuts but indulge yourself and also get a plate of cream with cinnamon or a pat of butter with honey. You won’t be sad about it.

Tanini Agapi Mou - Over 100 natural Greek wines by the glass are on the literally gigantic menu at this approachable yet hip wine bar. The food here is not a must but if you are feeling peckish then ask for their suggestions on the local meats and cheeses offered.

Takis - I can’t proclaim this is the best bakery in Athens but it has to be up there. Offering sweet and savory Greek delights all day long and a stone’s throw from the Acropolis make this bakery an easy choice.

Kolouri - This is not a place to eat but a treat to be eaten, most commonly on the street. A sometimes soft, sometimes crunchy ring-shaped pastry bread sprinkled with sesame seeds is a popular breakfast choice for many Athenians. It can also be sweet or sometimes stuffed but the classic is just with sesame seeds. Although you can find them at most bakeries (Takis is well-known for their version) I think they are most fun when purchased from one of the many kolouri vendors around town at their bright yellow carts.

Tigré - Athens is becoming known for their third wave coffee shop options however when in Greece I am a sucker for a Nescafé frappé, a Greek coffee with sugar, or a freddo cappuccino. This cafe sells all three and it is in a cute corner of the Exarchia neighborhood.

Black Salami Microbakery - Also in Exarchia, this happening bakery is best known for their high quality breads and their insanely delicious sandwiches. The quality of the products they use, from the olive oil produced in Mani to the ethically-sourced flour from Turin, Italy, is reflected in every delectable bite. Expect a line and if you show up too late you may be SOL.

Cocona - Using recipes and techniques learned from her mother, Ioanna has created a simple yet worthy menu dedicated to preserving traditions from her homeland Smyrna in Asia Minor. While she sells deeper, flakier pies popular in Greece her specialty is gozleme, a thin crepe-like pastry made to order and filled with things like spinach and aromatic herbs or pastourma, a spicy cured beef, or feta with mint and honey. She offers daily specials too so make sure to ask what is off menu that day.

Dirty Mani - A modern take on classic souvlaki with options like moussaka, cured pork and fig puree, or veal tail . This tiny cube-shaped spot is near the Acropolis and makes for a quick lunch before or after sight-seeing.

Mpirmpílo - This popular Kolonaki restaurant will most likely require a reservation but don’t let that keep you away. A classic, authentic Greek eatery with dishes like fava with smoked mackerel, moussaka, and Cretan rusk salad. In addition to their regular menu there are daily specials.

Lontza Tis Geitonias - This Exarchia restaurant has a menu is full of rustic dishes that make you feel like your dining in a Greek grandmother’s kitchen. The menu does change daily but if available try one of the pasta dishes, meatballs, or chicken in the oven.

Feyrouz - Levantine food may not be difficult to come by in Athens however this small restaurant is making its impression on the city. They carefully source ingredients, mill their own flour, toast their own spices and have designed a menu that rotates with the seasons. Their approach is casual and the depth and sophistication of flavors leaves me wanting more every time I come.


SLEEPING ARRANGMENTS

Greek hospitality is unparalleled and it is never more evident than at a hotel. I only have a few recommendations for you, two are true hotels with breakfast included but if you prefer a no-frills accommodation where you have a fridge
and little more space I got you covered.

Monsieur Didot - This neoclassical house sits on the edge of the Kolonaki and Exarchia neighborhoods and claims some fame as having hosted Lennon and Ono some 50 years ago on a visit to Athens. With just six rooms you have the opportunity to get all the attention you deserve from the staff while also feeling right at home in the luxurious and comfortable house. Each room is unique but if I had to choose I would pick from rooms 1, 3, or 4 which sit off of the main street and have a view of the leafy pedestrian street on the side of the house OR room 6 which is the crown jewel at the top with a private terrace and incomparable views.

Hestia Asklipiou 61 - As promised, here is your home away from home option. Located smack dab in the middle of it all means you could not have a better location. The rooms are self-service with keyless entry into the building as well as the rooms and are plenty spacious for a couple or even 3 people. A solid choice if you prefer to have a few more amenities than a hotel can provide.

COCO-MAT Hotels - With 3 different hotels in Athens you have options to choose from but the important thing to note is that they all provide you with the best sleep you will ever have in your life. Before a hotel chain COCO-MAT was just a mattress company, but these are not just any mattresses, they are made of all natural fibers like cotton, coconut fiber, seaweed, eucalyptus and lavender which provide you with the most luxurious night’s sleep. The breakfast buffet is pretty baller too with tons of Greek pastries, Greek yogurt and honey, and eggs made to order.


HISTORY IN RUINS

Athens is an ancient wonder worth many trips over many days in order to discover it all. I won’t go into detail about the obvious spots to see but rather offer some insight into some under-the-radar, less visited locations that may be worth your time.

National Garden - This English style garden was built in the 19th century by Queen Amalia for the palace. It boasts a botanical museum, a summer outdoor cinema, archeological remains and numerous native and foreign plant species. A great way to pass a lazy afternoon would be to bring a book and post up in this leafy park which feels like an oasis in the middle of the dense concrete jungle of Athens.

Agistri - If you need a city break and the weather permits might I suggest a day trip to the island of Agistri? From Piraeus a high speed ferry can get you there in 55 minutes making it an easy getaway. The island is quite small and easy to get around by foot, bicycle or scooter. There are three villages, two of which are ports, that have a handful of restaurants and amenities but the real reason you are coming here is to decompress and relax on a beautiful beach. From Skala or Megalochori you can find scooter and bike or e-bike rentals but if you prefer to walk the interior trails through the dense pine forests you will be rewarded with beautiful views towards Aegina and the Peloponnese. The cove of choice on this island has to be Dragonera so find your way there with a picnic in hand or order some snacks from the small beach bar.

Mount Lycabettus - The highest point in the city is at the top of this hill but 277 meters up isn’t as bad to scale as one might think. If walking ain’t your thing then take the cable car from Kolonaki. Once on top check out the incredible 360 views of all of Athens and visit the church from 1870 that crowns the hill.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center - A modern park that hosts the Greek National Opera house, the National Library of Greece, an outdoor theater, plus over 200,000 sq meters of green space within steps of the sea, who could ask for more? You could really spend a whole day here but if you are short on time, plan to spend at least a few hours exploring the whole park. Plans for the Athens metro to reach SNFCC were announced in 2021 making it more accessible soon.

Pedion Areos Park - Located just north of the Exarchia neighborhood is this lush park offering respite from the heat of the day and nice walking paths from which to discover the sculptures and busts that are hidden within. Built north of the city center in 1927 for Athenians to enjoy a space much like the National Garden and to honor the heroes of the Greek Revolution of 1821. Sprinkled throughout the park are marble busts depicting these heroes as well as a grand statue of Athena resting above a tribute to the soldiers from England, New Zealand and Australia who fought with Greece in WWII. You will also find a more recent sculpture of Pan’s Grotto built in 1962 as well as a small but ornately decorated church, Holy Temple of Taxiarches.