The Pyrenees mountain range forms the natural border that runs nearly 500 km between France and Spain and also passes through the micro country of Andorra. Older than the Alps, these mountains vary wildly in height and appearance with the highest peak measuring 3404m on the Spanish side of the border in Aragón. You will find that most of my focus has been on the Catalan Pyrenees and the Pyrénées-Orientales in France due to their proximity to Barcelona but there will be more to come.
According to Greek mythology these mountains are named for the princess Pyrene who was a virgin raped by a drunk Hercules. After giving birth to a serpent she fled to the woods where her sorrowful cries attracted the attention of the wild beasts of the forest. After they devoured her, a sober, heartbroken Hercules finds her remains and lays her to rest on the land that now occupies the mountains and asks that it join together to mourn and protect her for eternity.
WHERE TO STAY
Mas El Mir - This adult-only, pet friendly property is set in the foothills of the Pyrenees just outside of Ripoll. There is a pool for summer guests and a cozy spot near the fireplace in the winter. What sets this small guesthouse apart from others is the incredible style and furnishings as well as the delicious breakfast and dinner, complete with natural wine pairings. Plus if you are traveling with your furry friend there are trails just off the property and playmates who live on site ;)
Le Château Brangoly - The tiny village of Brangoly is tucked away in a picturesque valley not far from the French town of Enveitg. My first trip ever to the Pyrenees I stayed here and it is where I fell in love with these mountains. I have such fond memories of the beautifully restored farmhouse, the warm hospitality, the numerous trails close by and how much my dog, Edie loved being there too. There are streams, trails and wide open spaces to romp around in, any human or dog would enjoy being here. You can choose from a detached annex that is equipped with a full kitchen and 2 bedrooms as well as a private yard or you can stay in the posher main house where a full breakfast spread is included. A bonus to staying here is that one of the trails from the village leads to Dorres where you can luxuriate in the warm Roman baths while taking in the views.
La Masia del Taulat - Hospitality beyond compare can be found in this charming LGBTQ+ owned, dog friendly property in the small town of Llo, France. It is situated on a hillside with views of mountains Carlit and Cadí so you can sip your morning coffee on the terrace and watch the sun cast its gaze on their peaks. The tasteful decor is what I would call eclectic masculine with a dash of mountain lodge. Miguel and Toni are some of the nicest hosts I have had the pleasure of meeting. Miguel offers simple yet delicious dinners for guests who wish to relax “en casa” after a long day of hiking or skiing and the breakfast spread is quite delicious and enough to fuel you for your day ahead. A bonus to this location is the Bains de Llo, one of the many hot spring spas in this part of the Pyrenees, just a 4 minute drive from the property. You will without a doubt leave here with two new friends and lots of great memories.
El Mas de Sant Vicenç - A small compound of fully furnished, well-equipped apartments with a pool and outdoor grill located just east of La Cerdanya in Spain. This is a great option for anyone who wants to be completely self sufficient or is traveling with a group of friends. Choose between four tastefully decorated and super cozy apartments that can accommodate up to 4 adults and 1 dog.
Mas Sant Marc - This sister property of Hotel Brummell in Barcelona oozes style set in an old Catalan farmhouse on the outskirts of Puigcerdá. The location is convenient because you are minutes away from town if you want to dine out or need to pick up some provisions but you are set far enough away to feel like you are in a “casa rural”. You can choose between beautifully furnished rooms in the main house or the small detached property next to the stables which has a kitchenette and a big picture window next to the bed from which to watch the horses run past. They also offer activities like horse back riding and golf or you can use their bikes to explore the area. This property is dog friendly too.
MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES AND TRAILS
Vall de Campcardós - Set off on this incredible hike from the parking lot near the river Querol (Carol) just outside the French town of Porta. I opted for the 8.5 mile hike but there are options to go farther, even all the way to the border of Andorra. If going in the summer you should have plenty of daylight to spare if you leave before lunch but in other seasons I advise setting off early to avoid a hard walk back in the dark.
Lac dels Bouillouses - There are a few trails to take from this nature preserve in France but in my opinion following one of the two that walks around the many high altitude lakes will be the most rewarding. Depending on the season you will have the option to drive further up the access road for parking or be subject to parking in the lot closer to the main highway and take the bus up.
Valle de Eyna - A relative easy yet gorgeous hike through a narrow valley that leads away from France towards the border of Spain. Not recommendable when there is snow on the ground, from personal experience the passage is somewhat difficult with thin ice covering some of the streams underfoot.
Vall de Núria/Camí de Queralbs - This hike on the Catalan side of the Pyrenees is a great option if you don’t have access to a car and just want a daytrip up to the mountains. The cremallera, or rack rail car, that leads up to the sanctuary is reachable by train from Barcelona.
Santuari de Lord - A shorter, relatively easy trail around a hilltop sanctuary that affords incredible views from the top. There are many options in the Vall de Lord area to go longer distances or take other trails.
Bains de Llo - This wouldn’t rank as my favorite hot springs experience however when you want a nice warm bath after a long day of hiking, this will do. There are outdoor and indoor pools that all hover around 96ºF (35ºC) but none offer a great view of the surrounding area. Also I think they are a little pricey for what they are.
Bains de Dorres - Now these public Roman baths may have a sulfurous odor but you can’t beat the amazing views. All the pools are outside, one being a larger, more recently built pool and 3 others that are made of stone and clearly original. Your skin and muscles will feel great after a nice soak in these 102ºF (39ºC) baths.
Els Jardins Artigas - These gardens were designed around 1905 by famed Catalan architect Gaudí. Don’t expect anything mind-blowing but it is a nice stop on the way up from or back to Barcelona.
Bauma de les Deveses - Carles and his wife Imma have teamed up with natural winemaker Joan Rubió to revive the vineyards and winemaking tradition of the small town of Sant Júlia de Cerdanyola. With a visit here, Carles can take you on a walk through the newly planted vines or you can attend a workshop about the native, medicinal plants and how to use them taught by Imma. As of the summer of 2023 they still weren’t producing wine from their vineyard however you can opt to do a tasting of Joan Rubió’s wines that come from his vineyard near Vilafranca del Penedès.