A WEEKEND IN DALÍWOOD
Or as it is best known, the Dalí Triangle, is made up of three towns, each of which had special meaning to the artist. In order to immerse yourself in his world you should plan to visit each one- Portlligat, where he resided most of his adult life, Púbol, where Gala had her sanctuary, and of course, Figueres, his birthplace and resting place.
Sitting just north of Barcelona makes adding a long weekend away from the city very doable and totally worth the effort.
WHERE TO STAY
Sa Rascassa- I like to think of this petite hotel as my adult summer camp. It is my “go to” whenever I am planning a trip to Costa Brava because of its incredible location on the semi-private cove of Aiguafreda, just down the hill from the beautiful town of Begur. Oscar, your host, may don a hurried attitude but is a softy at heart and at the ready with recommendations. Take a pre-dinner stroll along the Camí de Ronda towards Sa Tuna and don’t skip a meal at the always packed hotel restaurant. Note this hotel is adult and dog friendly but does not allow children under 12 to stay.
Casa Elvira- Located in the picturesque town of Torroella de Montgrí is this gorgeous nearly 300-yr-old home whose owners have transformed the first floor into a unique guesthouse. With only 2 rooms you will certainly have peace and privacy. Both are tastefully decorated with comfy beds and soft linens and share the main sala where you will have breakfast every morning. Your hosts Joan and Alaina are always available for recommendations and advice.
Can Campolier- Traveling with a crew? This spot can handle it. These lovingly restored Catalan farmhouses date back to the 17th century and are set on a beautiful bluff overlooking the town of Porqueres. The property has 2 houses to choose from, both of which are dog friendly, and share a pool.
YOUR CULTURAL OBLIGATIONS
Gala’s Castle- Located in the medieval town of Púbol, which in itself is worth a visit. The castle was a gift to Gala from Dalí in 1969 and was her private home until 1982 when it became Dalí’s final studio space for the last few years he lived there. The castle seems somber and understated compared to the museum and his home in Portlligat which is why I suggest making this your first stop.
Dalí’s House in Portlligat- Originally a small fisherman’s hut bought by Dalí in 1932, the house underwent transformations over the span of almost 40 years, bit by bit, to be what you can see today. Dalí lived and worked in this wild, labyrinthian house until 1982 when Gala died, after which he moved to the castle in Púbol. Make sure to reserve tickets in advance, it is a must!
The Dalí Theater-Museum- Created for and designed by Salvador Dalí himself, this museum is considered to be his last great work. A collection of pieces by the artist from 1904-1989 as well as a handful of pieces by other artists Dalí invited to be exhibited are on display. Don’t miss his collection of jewels located in a separate building just after exiting the main museum as well as a visit to his crypt.
*BONUS- Barraca d’en Dalí - This amusing and whimsical structure is hidden amongst the pine trees just off of the Camí de Ronda near Platja de Castell. You can’t enter it, just enjoy it from the outside but I think it is worth the detour from the coast if you can find it ;)
THE MEALS IN BETWEEN
És! Carxofa- A good stop when visiting Púbol. All the food here is delicious but I would dive into their rice dishes if I were you.
Sa Rascassa- Whether you stay at the hotel or not the restaurant is worth checking out. Fresh seafood and seasonal vegetables are their hallmark and the ambiance couldn’t be more charming.
La Sal- On the way to Portlligat from Cadaqués is this upscale chiringuito with an incredible seafood menu. Get the fried turbot, or rodaballo, if you want a tasty surprise.
Vicus- Even with a Michelin nod this small town spot remains approachable and affordable. Located in the charming town of Pals, known for its rice industry… so order a rice dish!
Pa i Raïm- In the larger town of Palafrugell in the stunning old home of famous Catalan author, Josep Pla. The menu changes with the seasons so expect fresh and local. They have a great menú del día here!
Can Climent Platillos- Funky and unexpected plates are coming out of this tiny kitchen in Begur but you won’t be disappointed by any of them. A nice change from your usual Costa Brava fare.
Villa Más- A good stop for a menú del día on your way up or down the coast from Barcelona. This seaside spot boasts a gigantic terrace on the water but make sure to always be prepared with a reservation, this spot is hot.
HIKING THE GR-92 - in Costa Brava it is one of the most rewarding and breathtaking things you can do while in this the area of the country. The Camí de Ronda trail spans from Portbou at the border of France down to Blanes just north of Barcelona. The highlights are numerous but some worth hitting are the Cap de Creus National Park near Portlligat and the stretch between Palamós and Palafrugell. Check out the botanical garden Jardíns de Cap Roig too. There are some inland routes as well but in my opinion the most stunning sections are along the coast where you can stop off in little coves and take a dip or rest your feet and have a picnic. Make sure to carry a lot of water and snacks and wear comfortable clothes, a hat, and walking or hiking shoes. These trails range from easy to intense with few to no amenities along the way so you should always be well prepared. You will no longer have to contemplate where Dalí found his inspiration once you see this coastline.